I have been to Venezuela between 1st and 20 of August, two days after 10 people were killed in the Constituent Assembly protests. Everyone recommended me not to visit the country even the ones living there. To reduce my time in the country I skipped 4 main attractions, Isla Margarita, the Okavango Delta, Angel Falls and Roraima Mount. There were plenty of challenges associated with traveling there, from exchanging money to being aware all time while walking in the street.
I stil managed to see a lot going trough the cities of Maracaibo, Merida and surroundings, Caracas, Mochima National Park, Puerto la Cruz, Lecheria, Ciudad Bolivar, and Santa Elena de Uairem.
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Border: Maicao – Maracaibo (1 day)
Took me one entire day to travel between this 2 cities. First because the small truck filled with people just left when completely full at 10AM. I was the only foreigner, and the other 30 passengers were Venezuela citizens bringing supplies into the country. There is an ilegal border between those countries controlled by a local mafia (called Paisa). The truck dropped me in the official immigration, crossed trough the other border and met me further. I explain in detail how to cross between Colombia and Venezuela here.
The people in the truck were lovely and really worried about my safety in the country. It was a great start and chatting with all those people gave me confidence to travel further.
Maracaibo – El Vigia – Merida (1 day)
I arrived in the tricky terminal of Maracaibo at 3PM and there was no more availability of direct buses to Merida. I was also out of money, so I managed to change 20 USD with a bus company owner. I took a bus to El Vigia that was leaving at 6PM and arriving at 4AM the next day. As soon as I arrived in el Vigia terminal I got the last seat of a bus that was leaving to Merida and arrived there around 6AM.
Merida (3 days)
Merida is the adventure city of Venezuela, the same way Baños is in Ecuador and San Giles in Colombia. There were plenty of activities available but I chose the paragliding, that cost me only 120.000 bolivars, for my exchange rate, 10 USD. The fact that I had a couchsurfing host helped me a lot to walk around the city and he showed me where was safe and where was not. The big cities had no illumination at night and not a lot of policemen in the streets.
There are plenty of hikes around Merida. I opted to take a bus to the city of Apartadero and hike Sierra da Culatra National Park, reaching Las verdes Lagoon. It was a 7 hour hike return. The next day I also went to the touristic Black lagoon.
I skipped to visit the biggest cable car in the world located in Merida because it had an entry fee for foreigners of 50 USD.
Merida – Caracas (1 day)
From Merida to Caracas I had my first 2 bad experiences in Venezuela. I arrived early morning in the terminal to get a ticket in the direct bus (You can’t buy a ticket in advance because of bus shortages). After 2 hours waiting the bus company told us that no bus would leave that day. A random guy from another company (Expressos Merida) appeared offering the group of us a solution. A bus was available at El Vigia leaving at 4PM to Caracas. He put us in the bus to El Vigia and over there a big and comfortable bus was ready to leave. The price of the ticket 30.000 bolivars that represented in the day currency around 1.5 USD. And here comes the second bad experience. 4 in the morning in the city of Barquisimeto the bus stopped for passengers to go out. Suddenly around 10 robbers appeared and tried to break in the bus hitting the glass with metal tools. I was told that two of them were armed. Passengers who were outside had their phone stolen and fight with the bad elements. Just a few seconds after the police showed up and enter the bus with the gun pointed looking for the robbers. I was really lucky not to be robbed that day. At 11 AM I was arriving in Banderas Terminal in Caracas.
Caracas (3 days)
When I arrived in Caracas most of the main streets were closed by protestors. My couchsurfing host picked me up with a motorcycle and we passed by a few blocked streets. It was a peaceful protest and on this one for example an entire family was responsible for the organization.
Altamira is a safe district to stay and close to the city center. I spend a few days in El Hatillo a bit away from the city center but kind of a small village near Caracas. It was really safe and people told me was the only place I could use my cellphone in the streets. Many nice restaurants and bars were around the main square.
In Caracas you have plenty of historical buildings an a great botanical garden.
Caracas – Cumana (1 day)
My third bad experience was the bus I took from Caracas to Cumana. The bus driver drove on the curb and we almost fell off an overpass. Passengers got small injuries. We took the bus 10AM and arrived in Mochima National Park entrance by 6PM.
Mochima National Park (2 days)
Mochima is one of the best spots to dive in Venezuela. Save one day for diving or snorkeling and the second day to explore the beaches. 2 cylinders and full equipment cost me 100.000 bolivars, around 10 USD.
The most famous beach is playa blanca, that can be accessed by a boat hired in the harbor. Other tours to discover islands and nature are also available.
Mochima – Puerto la Cruz ( 1 day)
A small truck brought us from Mochima to Cumana where we got a bus to Puerto La Cruz. We arrived by the end of the afternoon.
Puerto la Cruz and Lecheria (2 days)
Puerto La Cruz is an important transport hub and have beautiful beaches. Lecheria is only 45 minutes away where you can swim and hike the hill in the picture for a viewpoint. I spend 2 days there to relax before taking the road towards Brazil.
Puerto La Cruz – Ciudad Bolivar – Km 88 – Santa Elena de Uairen (2 days)
Took me 2 days to cross from Puerto La Cruz to Brazil because I chose the cheapest way, explained in details here.